△ Luxury · 2026-08-04
41.1%

The Luxury Recovery Has a Gucci-Shaped Hole in It.

LVMH returned to 2% growth. Kering posted its first positive quarter in three years. Hermès grew 6.7% with a 41% operating margin. And Gucci is still declining. The H1 2026 numbers tell you exactly who gets left behind.

Julius Young
Julius Young — Founder & Editor-in-Chief, Vantage

The H1 2026 luxury earnings season produced enough improvement that the major houses sounded something like relieved. LVMH reported €38.6 billion in first-half revenue, up 2% organically. Kering returned to 2% comparable growth in Q2 — its first positive quarter in three years. Hermès posted €8.2 billion, up 6.7% at constant exchange rates, with a 41.1% operating margin and leather goods growing 10%.

These numbers look like recovery if you do not look closely at Gucci. In 2025, Gucci declined 19%. In Q1 2026, it declined 8%. In Q2, it declined 2%. The trajectory is improving but the brand is still contracting while the market is beginning to grow. Complicating the story: L'Oréal is taking over the Gucci beauty license from Coty in mid-2027, with ambitions to triple the business — the Kylie Cosmetics/Coty pattern, repeating at larger scale. Hermès is the inconvenient fact the industry keeps having to explain: 41.1% operating margin in a period LVMH spent stabilizing. The H1 2026 numbers confirm that luxury is bifurcating between the ultra-scarce tier where Hermès operates and the aspirational tier where the recovery is still incomplete. Related: Why Hermès Has a 41% Operating Margin